Note: The map shows potential providers of inputs that have comparative advantage or an export potential of more than $10 million
Significant intraregional export potential to untap
Africa has the potential to export €5.8 billion of cotton garments by 2026. Almost 15% of these exports would
be on the African continent.
Two-thirds of intraregional export potential in the sector have yet to be unlocked. Despite high exports and
export potential, import demand is also high. This is reflected in an import value of €3.6 billion, projected to
increase by 84% as of 2026 to €6.6 billion
Africa is on the low steps of this value chain ladder
The continent is an important producer and exporter of raw cotton and is involved in the final assembly of
certain textiles. However, Africa exports 90% of its raw cotton to Asia and is a net importer of cotton fabrics
and yarn. African cotton apparel manufacturers import a mere 7% of cotton yarn and 6% of cotton fabric from
elsewhere on the continent.
Export potential in cotton garments could increase quite a bit if intermediate steps in the value chain – such
as processing of cotton into yarn and fabric – were carried out on the continent. This presents strategic
investment opportunities with a view of diversifying production locations and near-shoring close to major
markets, e.g. the EU, to reduce the risk of supply-chain disruptions.
Twenty-six economies, including 16 LDCs, could competitively export inputs for the cotton apparel value
chain. Eleven of these countries, including four LDCs, could also competitively export outputs of the value
chain, while two additional countries – Cabo Verde and Kenya – could only competitively export the outputs.
A need to enhance businesses’ awareness of existing trade agreements
and their impacts
More than 80% of interviewed businesses have not seen or are not aware of any impact of existing trade
agreements. Still, about two-thirds are optimistic that a continental trade agreement would boost regional
trade in the cotton apparel sector. About 60% of survey respondents in the industry are unaware of the
AfCFTA, however, and more than 90% have never participated in any form of consultation on trade deals.
The changing dynamics of international value chains in the apparel industry and growing interest in nearshoring put Africa in a strategic position and create opportunities to develop this value chain on the continent.
Cotton apparel value chain has high job-creation potential
A study by ITC and the International Labour Organization estimates that fully realizing the export potential
of cotton apparel could generate more 200,000 jobs in Egypt and upwards of 50,000 in Tunisia alone. This
could especially benefit women, who represent a large part of the workforce in the sector: 73% of interviewed
value chain participants across Africa employ more women than men and women lead a quarter of African
cotton apparel companies.
- FIGURES -
Box 1-Promising value chains in ECOWAS and EAC
Box 2 -Tools to cut the time and cost of product authorizations
Box 3 - The pharmaceutical initiative for Africa
Figure 1 Honing in on promising value chains
Figure 2 Sectors with most promising value chains
Figure 3 Promising value chains span across the continent
Figure 4 Consultations with African businesses and stakeholders
Figure 5 Participants in the web-based consultations
Figure 6 Expert-led interviews along the pilot value chains
Figure 7 Participants of NTM Business Surveys in Africa
Figure 8 Most African trading firms handle export processes themselves
Figure 9 Firms in the four value chains are well established
Figure 10 Most business survey participants are small and medium-sized firms
Figure 11 Locals own most surveyed firms in the pilot value chains
Figure 12 Few African firms are present outside their home country
Figure 13 Companies make most sales and revenue locally
Figure 14 Export-related measures, technical regulations and rules of origin
requirements hinder intra-Africa trade
Figure 15 Half of value chain participants are unaware of AfCFTA
Figure 16 Most pharma export potential is unrealized
Figure 17 What do firms say about trade agreements?
Figure 18 Nearly half of the sector’s potential remains unrealized
Figure 19 Cotton apparel import value to rise 84% by 2026
Figure 20 Women are still underrepresented in African businesses
Figure 21 Women along the four pilot value chains
Figure 22 Women struggle to access finance
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